Despite changing national boundaries throughout history, scholars assert
a distinct Central European culture based on similarities emanating
from historical, social and cultural characteristics. Central Europe is
often viewed as the area of cultural heritage of the Habsburg Empire and
this is particularly true from a wine standpoint.. Despite the fact
that “Central Europe” is not a legally defined and protected geographic
region of origin for wine in current or past legislation, it is
worthwhile considering the identity of Central European wine from a
cultural aspect. Do the wine regions of Austria, Alsace, Alto Adige, the
Czech Republic, Friuli, Germany, Hungary, Slovakia, Slovenia, and
Switzerland share a common identity?
Central European wine cultivation is highly fragmented. Wine grapes have
usually been one of several different crops on small agricultural
farms. The average grape grower in Central Europe has less than two
hectares of vineyards. Post WWII saw the first wave of agricultural
farms specializing in wine grapes and subsequently a growth in the
number of grape growers producing and bottling their own wines rather
than selling grapes to larger producers and cooperatives. Magnifying
this fragmented structure is the fact that Central Europe has always
been multi-lingual and multi-national. Borders of the various countries
and legislations have changed and been redefined multiple times. As
fragmented as this may appear, this is actually a binding aspect because
this diversity is universal throughout Central Europe and has provided a
breeding ground for one of the world’s richest sources of creative and
intellectual talent. Central Europe is geographically encompassed by the Alps to the west and
the Carpathian Mountains to the north and the east. The climate for
wine cultivation can be defined as continental and in all parts of
Central Europe where the climate is moderate enough, wine cultivation
thrives. Central European vineyard area covers over 330,000 hectares and
is in 5th place in global wine production behind France, Italy, Spain,
and the USA. The importance of wine in Central European lifestyle can be
observed in the vineyard area, production volume, export and annual per
capita consumption in the graphic below.

The continental climate that reigns in Central Europe has greatly
influenced the choice of grape varieties planted for wine production.
For the most part, the climate is cool and over 50% of the vineyard area
is planted with white wine grape varieties. Central Europe is
responsible for 75% of the world’s Riesling vineyard area (source:
Fischer/Swoboda “Riesling”) which is planted mostly in Germany, Alsace
and Austria. The exquisite off-dry Rieslings of the Mosel with low
alcohol levels are an inimitable style that is admired around the world.
The Rieslings in general from Central Europe are viewed globally as
role models for the variety. Black grape varieties are prevalent only in
the Pannonian Plains of Burgenland in Austria and Hungary which
comprise the warmest parts of Central Europe. An estimated 20-30% of the
world’s Pinot Noir is planted in Central Europe which is the region’s
predominant black grape variety. Riesling and Pinot Noir are followed by
several other varieties. Grüner Veltliner has recently established
itself as a popular brand from Austria. There are hopes that the unique
Blaufränkisch (synonyms: Kékfrancos, Lemberger) will also establish
itself as a brand, for it certainly has a unique profile among red wines
and is a variety that is found nearly nowhere else in the world.
Welschriesling (synonyms: Olasz Rizling, Laški Rizling) and Müller
Thurgau (Rivaner) are likewise varieties that are associated nearly
exclusively with Central Europe. The significance of Grüner Veltliner,
Müller Thurgau, Welschriesling and Blaufränkisch after Riesling and
Pinot Noir can be seen in the graph below.

Quality wines are made from over 200 different grape varieties in
Central Europe. Most of the wines are single-varietal wines and carry
the name of the variety on the wine label. This is also demonstrated in
Alsace, Alto Adige and Friuli which lie in countries that otherwise
generally use geographic labels of origin rather than varietal
labelling. As one can see in the graph below many of these varieties are
found across several countries and sub-regions in Central Europe.

Geographic labels of origin that do not mention the grape variety are
less prolific in Central Europe, but do exist in areas where a unique
wine style has been established over a long period of time and this wine
style employs more than one variety. Examples of this are the
botrytized sweet wine specialties Tokaij and Ruster Ausbruch. Dry white,
dry red, botrytized sweet wine, sweet wine from dried grapes, ice wine
and sparkling wine are all produced in Central Europe. Production of
fortified wine has little tradition here. There are styles that are
unique that have established an internationally recognized identity.
Besides the botrytized sweet wine specialties mentioned above, there are
also the Trockenbeerenauslese from Austria and Germany,
Rosenmuskateller from Alto Adige and Picolit and Ramandolo from Friuli. Central Europe is a dynamical historic concept, not a static spatial
one. “Central Europe” is not a legally defined geographic region and its
manifestation as an identity on a wine label shall remain a myth.
Despite this, the concept is a reality in a wine cultural sense. This is
documented by the common grape varieties shared among the different
sub-regions, many of them autochthon grape varieties that are found
nearly exclusively in Central Europe. Also testifying to wine’s
significant role in Central European culture is the relatively high
annual per capita consumption and its use as a regular beverage with
meals. Wine is the beverage of choice at diplomatic and public
celebrations as well as at business and private dinners. The Roman
Catholic religion continues to be the most prevalent religion in Central
Europe and wine is a part of the religious ritual at mass. A rich
heritage is documented by historic and unique Central European wine
styles that continue to be treasured and sought-after on a global scale
in today’s modern wine world. Grape varieties can be planted anywhere in
the world as is demonstrated by two indigenous Central European
varieties Riesling and, more recently, Grüner Veltliner. It is important
not only to highlight the variety in branding for a global market, but
also the geographic region of origin. There exist several terroir of
very high pedigree in Central Europe - terroir that leaves an inimitable
stamp. Measures should be taken to ensure high qualities and authentic
expressions of these terroir and this uniqueness should be communicated
to consumers clearly. A movement away from varietal labelling in favour
of clearly defined geographic regions of origins can be observed in
Central Europe. The Austrian DAC system is now a part of that country’s
wine legislation. The beginning of a movement towards vineyard
classification is also observed among various vintner associations
throughout Central Europe. It is not just the variety, but inimitable
terroir and historic wine culture that lend Central European wine its
unique identity and point of difference on the market. Although “Central
Europe” may never be found on a wine label, there are unique terroirs
from the region that have established international recognition and
respect and there promises to be more in the future. ©2011 Julia Sevenich, for more information www.julia7ich.com
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